One question we get asked a lot is how the sizing works for our tile stencils. So, we dedicated this entire post to this popular question.
Ready?
Here we go.
The listing size for our tile stencils represents the overall size of the main tile design, minus the registration marks (more about that soon). In other words, the size on the listing is the size of tile the design will fit.
We have seven sizes available (currently):
Let’s dig in and see what that looks like.
We will use the 4x4 inch Japanese Tile stencil as an example.
The image on the right highlights the main tile design, and the size of the design is 4 x 4. And on the right is the registration mark which overlap on the adjacent tiles as registration mark. All Stencil Revolution stencils have built in registration marks which are guides to line up the repeat pattern. If you aren’t familiar with what registration marks are, or how to identify these marks, you can read our post How to Stencil a Repeat Pattern and find out how to identify and use these marks.
Now that you know which area is the main design and which part is the registration mark...
1. Create first repeat with the tile stencil. Notice how the registration marks paint part of the design on the tiles on the right and bottom. These are the registration marks to guide the repeat patter.
2. Use the registration marks to line up the design on the tile to the right.
3. Use the registration marks to line up the design on the tile on the bottom.
4. Repeat steps 2-3 to finish the tile repeat pattern.
Nope, the tile stencils work perfectly on walls, furniture, concrete or linoleum floors.
Leave a comment and we'll be happy to answer them for you.
Happy Stenciling.
]]>Registration marks are built-in guides that help you line up and repeat your pattern seamlessly, and create an allover pattern with just one stencil.
These marks can be a dot, a line, or part of the stencil design. At Stencil Revolution, we build the registration mark into the design to achieve the best results. And in this post, I’ll show you how to start a repeat pattern and identify the registration marks for a flawless repeat pattern.
For a pattern to repeat the left and right side of the graphic must mirror each other, and the same for the top and bottom. And I’ll show you how this works with our Tile stencil and our wall stencil.
Before we start, it's important to understand what part of the stencil is the main graphic and which part is the registration mark.
Let's look at the image below to see how that looks.
On the left, main graphic is highlighted, and on the right the registration marks are highlighted. The registration marks are what you will use to align the pattern as designed.
You can start the stencil anywhere on the floor you’d like, but we recommend the center or top center of the room. Where you start isn’t as crucial important as taking the time to level the stencil square to the room (top/bottom, and side/side) before you make your first repeat. If you skip this step, the pattern may be crooked, and believe me, it will make your eye twitch every time you look at it.
We don’t want that, do we? Take a few extra minutes to level the stencil before you start.
This part is the easiest - and if you need to know how to stencil, we’ve compiled all the tip and tricks in the article How to Stencil like a Pro. So, if you haven’t already, check the article out.
Move the stencil to the right, overlapping the mylar with the previous painted area, and line up the registration marks.
Honestly, it’s the same steps as stenciling with the tile stencil. The only difference being with our wall patterns, the design repeats on all sides. Meaning the registration marks are on all sides so you can stencil top to bottom, left to right without having to rotate the stencil.
Use a level to make sure the mylar is flush and level with the wall. You can start anywhere on the wall, but ideally you’ll want to choose a spot free of outlets or windows for the first paint. But typically it’s a good idea to start in the horizontal center, slightly toward the top of the wall. Again, it’s a preference - but we’ve had the best results with starting in the center top.
Using a dry to the touch roller or brush, paint the first repeat.
Move the stencil to the right and line up the right edge of the first painted repeat with the left edge of the mylar stencil.
Move the stencil to the bottom/top and line up the bottom/top edge of the painted area with the top/bottom edge of the mylar stencil.
We have an article How to Stencil like a Pro that is a fabulous resource for the beginner or the seasoned stencil pro who needs a refresher.
All of our stencils are made with strongest mylar available, so they are reusable. With proper care, our stencils will last a very long time.
Happy stenciling!
Can’t find the perfect fabric for your project? Instead of settling for second best, why not make your own? Stenciling on fabric is easier than you think and gives you complete control over choosing the base fabric, color, and pattern.
Let’s get started!
Anyone who has experienced the misfortune of getting acrylic on their clothes knows it doesn’t come out once it dries. So, you might wonder why you need to use fabric paint/ink vs plain acrylic paint then? Fabric paint has a medium that suspends the acrylic so when it dries it will leave a soft non-crispy finish. If you use acrylic straight out of the tube, it leaves a stiff hard finish. But, with fabric medium, the texture is soft and moves and bends with the fabric.
One fact to keep in mind, most pre-made fabric paint and ink are semi if not fully transparent. Semi-transparent paint/ink is best used on lighter coloured fabrics because it won’t show up on darker/black colored fabric. And it doesn’t hurt to have a basic understanding of the color wheel since the color of the ink and the color of the fabric will interact - so if you want to stencil with red fabric paint over blue fabric... you’ll get a purple.
Mix your own fabric paint! All you need to include is a color that uses an opacifier, most commonly this is white. Mix your own concoction with fabric medium (follow manufactures instructions for paint to fabric medium ratio), and bam! Your own custom color.
Tip: Mix more paint than you might need. If you run out and have to mix more, it’s difficult to get an exact match. Store the leftover paint in a small jar for another project.
You can use any fabric. But the best results will be on a natural fiber fabric like cotton, hemp, linen, silk, etc.
If you are new to stenciling on fabric start with a tighter weave fabric. The fabric is more stable and easier to paint. With a loose weave fabric, some paint will fall through and show on the back. Not a bad thing, especially if your project uses a backing fabric - but something to note and be aware of.
For stretchy fabric is a bit trickier. It's really easy to paint off-grain which can create a distorted image. A handy trick for stretchy or high drape fabric is to iron on freezer paper (shiny side) on the wrong side of the fabric. This gives the fabric stability and prevents shifting and moving off grain. The freezer paper easily removes from the fabric with no residue.
Iron shiny side of freezer paper to the wrong side of the fabric + stabilize with tape ( our favorite is Thermoweb Purple Tape.
This is a hot debate in the sewing circles. There is no absolute answer because everybody has a different opinion.
The decision is up to you, but we're on team pre-wash.
Let’s get painting!
Cover your surface and stabilize the fabric using painters’s tape. Make sure to line up the fabric grain so the finished graphic is properly aligned Again, if using stretchy fabric, try the freezer paper trick, and then stabilize the paper.
Using an adhesive spray (repositionable) when stenciling on fabric is must if you want crisp results. Fabric has a certain amount of give and can move and shift while painting. Using spray adhesive seals the stencil edges to the fabric and prevents paint bleed. Unlike stenciling on hard surfaces, there is no fix for paint bleed on fabric. If it’s ruined, it’s done.
The fabric soaks up the paint, so you must work in layers. Give the first layer a light coat and let dry for a few minutes. This seals the surface and it minimize the the amount of paint soaking through to the back of the fabric.
Dab, swirl or roll the paint. The same techniques we showed you in our How to Stencil guide. Go read if you haven’t read this guide yer, or re-read for a refresher.
Once the fabric is fully dry, it’s time to heat set. Heat setting is a process that melts the fabric medium into the acrylic and bonds to the fabric. It’s not required but a good step if you plan on washing the fabric often.
Be sure to check the manufacturer's instructions on how long to heat set, but a general rule of thumb is 3-4 minutes.
That's all there is to it!
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You can stencil on almost anything, but not everything, like rough or heavily textured surfaces. Because the stencil cannot lay flat on a textured surface, the paint will bleed underneath areas that do not contact the surface.
Be sure to sand down rough textured wood, or scrape and sand any loose or cracked paint before you begin. The smoother, the better.
Wood: Use medium-fine grit sandpaper to smooth and create a good base. Wash with cleaning solution and let dry.
Metal: Wash with a cleaning solution and let dry. For a metal with rust, give it a good scrub with vinegar and baking soda to remove any loose bits. Wash with cleaning solution and let dry.
Walls + Furniture: Remove loose or cracked paint by lightly scraping or sanding the surface. Wash with cleaning solution and let dry.
** Sanding will take the finish off previously painted surface. These are excellent steps to take before priming and painting.
Fabric: Wash and dry fabric. Skip the fabric softener because it creates a barrier between the material and paint.
Glass/Ceramics: Wash with a cleaning solution and let dry.
Learning how to stencil without bleed is the key to a crisp edge. Don’t go slapping the paint around willy-nilly. There are a few tips and tricks to get successful results each time.
Ready?
Tip 1: Stabilize the stencil
Use painter’s tape or spray adhesive to secure the stencil to the surface, so it doesn’t move.
Spray adhesive will guarantee security that the stencil won’t move, or the brush won’t catch the edge and result in paint bleed underneath. Lightly spray adhesive to the back of the stencil and position on the surface.
Remove any residue from spray adhesive with a damp paper towel, or using one of the cleaning solutions used to prep the surface. Being 100% honest, removing all the spray adhesive is hard. There will be some of the spray adhesive that will be left behind. It won’t ruin the stencil. After you clean the stencil, place it on a piece of wax or parchment paper before storing the stencil. These steps hold true regardless if you're learning how to stencil on wood or any other surface. Keeping a clean stencil is crucial if you want it to have a long life.
When using painter’s tape, make sure you tape all sides, including corners ( if you can). A dowel or a pencil end is handy to hold the stencil down in the area you are painting because it prevents the stencil from lifting while you paint.
Tip 2: Offload and work in layers
If there were a golden rule for how to stencil, this would be it - offload the paint. Every dip in the paint. Every time.
Offloading means removing the excess paint from the applicator onto a paper towel or rag. The brush should be almost dry to the touch. A little paint goes a long way.
This method is called dry brushing.
The trick is to use a dry brush (or roller) and work in layers. Slowly building up the color will result is a clean and professional finish.
*Tools: stipple brush, dabber, sponge, or roller.
Tip 3: Tap tap tap that paint
Apply paint at the edges of the stencil and work towards the center with a light up-and-down motion ( tap tap tap). Avoid using a side-to-side movement or pressing too firm; this will cause bleed.
Naturally, if you are using a foam roller, you won’t use an up-and-down motion. But you still want to start from the edges of the stencil and work towards the middle.
*Tools: stipple brush, dabber, sponge.
Tip 4: Patience
The finish is exciting. You want to peek and see, but trust me, don’t. Wait a few minutes for the paint to dry, then lift the stencil. Wet paint around the edge of the stencil can bleed or drip when lifting the stencil off the surface. It’s worth the extra few seconds to be patient.
Ok, so you’re finished, and you lift the stencil, and everything is perfect except one (or two spots).
Blergh!
Don’t sweat it! It’s fixable.
Grab a small paintbrush and give it a light touch up with the base color. No one will notice!
Bridges are the connectors (tabs) that hold the stencil together and give it strength. Without bridges, the graphic would be one big outline with no detail.
*This design is from our floor tile stencils collection, they're great for DIY projects.
Some people like the bridged look and others don’t. It’s really up to you. Lettering or sayings sometimes read easier without the bridges.
After you have finished painting the stencil, grab a brush and fill in the gaps ( bridges), and Voila!
It’s important to clean and store your stencil correctly so that it can be reused across multiple projects, and provide a crisp line with each use. We’ve created a guide to cleaning and caring for your stencils.
Happy stencilling!
With care, a good quality mylar stencil will last for a long time, but it is important to clean and care for your stencil properly between uses. Leftover paint on the edges will interfere with the quality of the stencil graphic, and not storing the stencil correctly can bend or crease intricate pieces of the stencil, so it may not lay flat.
Don’t worry if the paint dries on the stencil before you get to wash the stencil. Acrylic is forgiving when dried on mylar, and will come off with a soak and light scrub.
Run the stencil under warm water and lightly scrub with a dish brush. Mostly, pay attention to the paint around the edge of the graphic.
If the paint is caked on or the paint has fully dried, soak the stencil in warm soapy water, or latex cleaning solution, for an hour (or overnight). After, lightly scrubbed with a dish brush, and remove the paint.
A cookie tray, a medium plastic container, or wrapping in a plastic bag to soak will work; as long as the liquid covers the stencil lays flat.
With a dry paper towel, blot the stencil dry, and let it air dry completely.
Paint: water-based, acrylic, or latex.
Sometimes cleaning the stencil requires a little elbow grease to get the paint off. The trick is pre-soaking the stencil with a commercial water-based paint cleaner, or using one of the cleaning recipes from our how to stencil post.
Supplies
Instructions
Paint: water-based, acrylic, or latex.
Oil-based paints are more durable than acrylic, making it a good choice for high traffic areas. Oil paint dries slower, and it stinks like crazy, but is more resistant to scratches and chips.
Mineral spirits or turpentine are used to clean the stencils after using oil-based paint. It may require a pre-soak like the Deep Clean method, but don’t worry. Mylar is strong, and it won’t ruin the stencil.
Oil paint and the cleaners for oil-based paint smell strong and can be potentially toxic. Save your lungs and escape a headache by wearing a mask; this will prevent inhaling most of the fumes.
Always store stencils flat. A plastic under bed storage container works great - using paper between each stencil. Or, our favorite method: use a clothing hanger! The multiple clip hangers are lovely, and can hold quite a few stencils per hanger. Hang in a closet, or if you have a craft room, they display beautifully on a pegboard or on the wall.
Happy stencilling!
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